European Willow

How to grow European Willow

Written by the GardenDecoded editorial team · Last reviewed 21 July 2026 · Written for UK gardens · How we research our guidance

Planting

Plant bare-root in winter, or simply push a cut length of dormant stem into damp ground — willow roots that readily. Site it at least 20 m from buildings and drains; the roots are aggressive and will find any moisture, including cracked pipework.

Pruning

Pollard or coppice on a two- to five-year cycle in late winter if you want to keep the size down or harvest rods. Once you start pollarding, keep it up — a long-neglected pollard develops heavy limbs that tear out. Untouched trees need only deadwood removal.

Propagation

Hardwood cuttings, 20–30 cm, pushed into moist soil in winter. Success rates are very high and no rooting hormone is needed.

Pests and diseases

Willow anthracnose causes leaf spotting and shoot dieback in wet springs, and various sawflies, beetles and gall mites feed on the foliage without doing lasting harm. Watersheds of decay in old pollards are normal rather than a disease.

Value to wildlife

Early catkins are an important pollen and nectar source in April, and the foliage supports a wide range of moth caterpillars. Riverside trees stabilise banks and shade the water.

Notes

This is a large, fast, thirsty tree — the commonest mistake is planting it in a small garden because a young one looked manageable. If space is limited, choose a coloured-stem willow grown as an annually coppiced stool instead.

This guidance was researched and written by GardenDecoded — see our editorial policy for how guides are checked and reviewed.

Other names for this plant

These names have all been used for Salix alba but are no longer the accepted name. You may still meet them on old labels, in books, or in nursery catalogues.

Others in Salix